Melt the butter in a large frying pan on medium heat. Cook the onion for 5 minutes until softened. Add the pancetta and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta has some crispy bits. Add the apple and cook for 2 minutes or until the apple is just softened. Remove from the heat and add the remaining ingredients.

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Place a greased rack into a roasting pan. Add 2 cups of water to the pan.

Pat the hens dry with paper towel. Place the hens on a cutting board and fill each one with the stuffing, gently pressing it into each hen until all the stuffing is used. Place the hens on the wire rack. Rub a little oil over each hen and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes. Place the apples around the hens, if using. Roast for 40 minutes until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the largest hen registers 165°F (74°C) and apples are tender but not mushy. Cover loosely and let stand for 10 minutes while you make the gravy.

Heat the pan juices over a medium heat. You will want at least 1/3 cup of pan juices, if there’s not that much then add some butter to make up the difference. Add the flour and cook, stirring, until the flour is well combined and smells nutty. Carefully add the brandy. Stir until the brandy is incorporated. Add the broth and whisk until no lumps remain. Increase the heat to medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, stirring regularly, for 5 to 8 minutes until the gravy is thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If you prefer, strain the gravy through a fine metal sieve.

Serve the hens and apples with the gravy.